Paris Fashion Week Menswear Autumn/Winter 2022 marks the inaugural Paris Fashion Week event for the year, last from 18-23 January 2022. From Kenzo’s debut collection of its new artistic director to a Metaverse-inspired collection, there were many iconic moments. This year’s event was all about bold, beautiful, and brave silhouettes that bid a fond farewell to traditional menswear conventions. Here is a recap and highlights from the brands and the looks.
During the men’s shows, giving the fashion crowd a chance to showcase their best looks while attending shows among many more. Much of Paris fashion week took place digitally but the headliners, including Dior and Louis Vuitton, returned to the catwalk with impressive productions.
The trends this season with tons of metallic, neon, and monochrome outfits. Many paired outfits with one or two simple statement pieces, whether it be a bold accessory such as a snakeskin, Dior saddle with a simply tailored suit, a checkered overcoat dressed on top of a black and white sweater and pants pairing, or just a floral patterned sweater over trousers, attendees have once again set the trend for minimalism. Puffer jackets and vests were a popular choice this season, both for their functionality and comfort. Box cut leather jackets were common, however, the style stood out in color accents and simple patchwork designs. Relaxed tailoring still a popular choice amongst both men and women showgoers.
Paris Fashion Week (French: Semaine de la mode de Paris) is a series of designer presentations held semiannually in Paris, France with spring/summer and autumn/winter events held each year. Paris Fashion Week is part of the global “Big 4” fashion weeks, the others being London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week. The schedule begins with New York, followed by London, and then Milan and ends in Paris.
Paris Fashion Week can, as for ready-to-wear week in March, see up to a hundred brands fashion parade. In addition to ready-to-wear shows, there are men’s and haute couture shows, which are held semiannually for the spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons. French weeks are not similar if they concern haute couture or ready-to-wear.
In Paris, the biggest fashion brands present up to six collections a year: haute couture and/or ready-to-wear and/or menswear, spring-summer and autumn-winter. There are therefore several “Weeks” in the year, mainly two reserved for Haute Couture (January and July), two for Men’s fashion (January and June) and two others for ready-to-wear (March and September ).
Because of their worldwide reputation, several international houses choose to parade in Paris for their ready-to-wear. Until 2010, Paris Fashion Week took place at the Carrousel du Louvre.
Lukhanyo Mdingi is part of the unmistakable rise of a young generation who are representing the expansive creative energies of Africa. Lukhanyo Mdingi is making waves in the international fashion world with his timeless African-inspired pieces, the East London-born fashion designer quotes a trip to Burkina Faso as his inspiration for the stunning collection.
His collection with effervescent spectrum of superbly tactile made-in-Africa luxury: Generously trailing mixed-media scarves, mohair and felted ponchos in intense pops of yellow, lavender, and pink, and neat-to-the body Merino knitwear mixed with chic hand-woven trouser suits.
Youths In Balaclava
The Singapore collective known as Youths in Balaclava, and has been garnering buzz since its conception thanks to their bold, unflinching take on fashion design. In the Paris Fashion Week, they rolled out a slick seven-minute sci-fi film. Set in a fictional dystopian city, the film introduced three factions challenging the totalitarian and its all-seeing eye.
Not much happens in the film, except for a lot of sullen posing in cool leather jackets, khakis kinked up with corset lacing or straps galore, and quilted Bermuda shorts. their wardrobes are inspired by hot-rod culture, the chopper scene and customized bosozoku cars. The clothes were meticulously detailed, original and loud.
Bluemarble has been working to make a mosaic of cultures the ultimate foundation of its purpose. American sportswear, European savoir-faire, and Filipino artisanal touches are all in the mix for fall 2022. That same free spirit persists in eccentric knitted hats made in France, surfer-style ankle boots with foam soles and dead stock faux-fur uppers, funky ’90s reflective sunglasses, and a purple faux-fur leopard print hoodie-coat that is one of Alvarez’s favorite pieces.
This season, its founder Anthony Alvarez summoned memories of his Franco-Filipino childhoo. as an inexhaustible source of inspiration, infuses a wardrobe that mixes languages, as trompe l’oeil pants fuse surf shorts overlaid on tailored trousers, and t-shirts are made of textured, combed jersey that feels like beachwear-inspired terrycloth. Volumes are bold, oscillating between XXL proportions and pieces that are shorter and more slim-fitting. A patchwork of stripes and a rainbow print leitmotif halo the collection with much-needed good vibes, as a symbol of peace and renewal that underscores a neo-hippy look that harks back to the 1970s.
Georges Wendell presented its Fall/Winter 22 collection at the Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Creative director Pierre Kaczmarek took inspiration from the Vaudevilles, a theatrical genre. The show was held at the Parisian restaurant L’Ami Louis where models repeated the activities of diners, such as taking videos, having drinks, and chatting — making it for a semi-casual collection. Georges Wendell reflects on Paris Youth, a generation that comes from all its corner and takes inspiration from each of its facets. The Parisian label filters classic designs through a youthful lens.
The collection continues to play with traditional business tailoring, but mixes structured pieces with cotton, casual Friday denim and light knitwear. Various materials being utilised throughout the collection, including corduroy and denim. The casual aspect of the collection came from the different fun prints that included wine glasses, stripes, shapes and presumably images from film scenes. A showcase of womenswear was also included in this collection, featuring lace, ribbons, and fur to create a girly, feminine, and delicate look.
EGONLab presents a new world order for the Fall/Winter 2022 season. Titled “EGONIMATI,” the new collection symbolizes a society tasked with bringing about universal happiness and freedom. The wardrobe of the members of this secret society was dark where black largely dominated, emphasizing strict tailored looks cut closer to the body and mixed with streetwear pieces. This base was embellished with more exuberant and daring touches, such as geometric piping, fringes or fur chokers. Tarot-style prints and motifs of all-seeing eyes added a mystical touch to the collection, while Crocs set with Swarovski crystals played with bling and lightness.
Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, the creative duo behind the ANDAM prize-winning label, exercise their signature punk-infused tailoring with the new collection through a dark color palette and strong silhouettes. Consisting of brooding medieval capes, tailored overcoats, contemporary suits, sculptural dresses, printed button-down shirts, puffer outerwear and more, the collection represents a unique offering permeated with subtle spiritual notes. Other design details include print motifs inspired by Salvator Dalí’s surrealist pyramid that are woven onto collection shirts.
TAAKK presented their Fall Winter 2022.23 Collection, that explores “this nonsensical world we call home” theme.Taakk reshapes the possibilities of menswear design with a multidisciplinary approach, combining extensive material research and imaginative fabric treatments. like a crochet knit tank top with matching detached sleeves, floral landscape patterns that move across bodies, ombre silk sets that glide down catwalks, or perforated overcoats that flounce with the wind like waves to shore.
TAAKK focused on exploring himself again, eliminating his own filters. Thinking beyond his own imagination, questioning himself. Looked inwards for inspiration. The collection explores one’s strong wish to overcome their own boundaries, and the designer visualized this emotion into graphics onto an imitation leather fabric, enabling unique expression of combined material. Morikawa styled technical fabric items together with basic denims to recreate fashion that he had dreamed of as a student.
KIDILL celebrates the work of American writer, novelist and artist Henry Darger, on January 18th, as part of the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. The Outsider Collection explores an idea that Henry lived with both his feet set in reality and non-reality, living simultaneously in the real world and insanity. The collection honors the lifestyle of an outsider who acts on ones own faith without the influence of the social ideals.
Henry living with both his feet set in reality and non-reality, living in the real world alongside with the insanity. Henry was living in an unstable state, reality and unreality or normal with unusual, thus creating a unique balance of the conscious and the unconscious minds. His creativity and drive to construct, the everlasting passion, or the creative process became an art therapy gently linked to KIDILL’s essential ideology of giving essential freedom in the creativity. The struggle for the establishment for freedom is the principality of all the outsiders living in the present.
Études present a short film shot between the city of Paris and the Vercors massif by director Grégoire Dyer, featuring the joyful urban/rural journey of a trio of friends. The collection, for the tenth anniversary of the label, is a celebration of New York City and a tribute to one of its most emblematic artists of modern art: Jean-Michel Basquiat. This season, Études has again collaborated with the British bootmaker Solovair to create shoes with irregular dots.
Bianca Saunders presented her debut catwalk show titled “A STRETCH”. Saunders has found her footing in her signature aesthetic, one informed by timeless designs that are tinged with illusionary concepts to redefine her understanding and connotations of what masculinity represents. Partial to solid colors, blurred prints and monochromatic dressing, Saunders makes clothes that don’t throw off sparks on a runway. But her clever cutting and the way she twists garments can grab one’s attention.
“A STRETCH” kicks off with a warped check ensemble, adding a touch of three-dimensional movement to an otherwise flat surface. It puckers the waist, while shoulders are placed closer to the neck to create a natural curve, while on the trousers, the warped print inverses to suggest movement on the waist. Illusions are delivered in ways other than print, overlapping seam running down the middle is futuristic. It produces a silhouette unfamiliar in the menswear world, yet one that anyone could wear.
SANKUANZ’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection blends high fashion and streetwear styles, deftly kept things grounded with signature details. Titled “A Room With No Sound,” founder and creative director Shangguan Zhe elevates the brand’s cadence of wide-ranging inspiration by not only blending dress notes but by re-incorporating elements from previous collections.
By blending an array of styles, the collection’s slightly dystopian persona represents the destruction of social class and the resulting celebration of uniqueness. Garments like square-shouldered suits, elongated button-down shirts, exaggerated sweatsuits, restructured co-ord sets and formless pants showcase Zhe’s contemporary approach to evolving dress notes. Outerwear pieces serve as an eye-catching offering featuring floor-length overcoats in multicolored furs and printed designs. Additionally, collection pieces are elevated by graffiti prints, steel embellishments, voluminous tulle and various textures, showcasing both the range and complexity of emotion.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2022 features multi-purpose and loose tailoring, continuing the brand’s simplicity and movement-based ethos. Realistic with a side of chic, individual, off-kilter edge—is pertinent to today’s lifestyle. Pieces from this season uphold the brand’s casual utilitarian motif, focusing on the elevated effortlessness of its outwear. Set against an outdoor backdrop, the designers hoped to transport showgoers to an Impressionistic landscape, commenting on the nomadic lifestyle of the Lemaire individual. Meandering in front and across of one another in front of a monumental imaginary landscape by stage director Philippe Quesne, were dressed in thoughtfully layered pieces that neatly spliced ease, movement, and a sophisticated take on functionality.
All these pieces, focused on the discreet luxury so characteristic of Lemaire and on effortlessness, were beautifully enhanced by a telluric palette of black, khaki, beige, brown, burgundy and bottle green, as well as marble prints designed with artist Frédérique Pelletier. Shapes were kept ample and flowy, their relaxed allure making for easy layering. Plays on draping and folding added an edgy yet airy feel to functional everyday pieces, made in lightweight fabrics in a palette of subtly saturated hues.
Ernest W. Baker
Ernest W. Baker presented its Fall/Winter 2022 collection, which built on the idea of family, doing things their own way and hitting their stride from their new home base in Portugal. The collection also laying new ideas and accessories onto “the well-put-together Milanese man from the ’60s” on his mother’s side.
Their way around tailoring: sharp jackets and coats, whether in pin stripes or faux fur, are their strong suit, paired with trousers cut long and lean. A cardigan made according to a Portuguese finger-knitting technique that mimics shearling managed to look both crisp and cozy, while a faux mink belted coat tacked toward retro-fabulous. A jacquard zip cardigan with a rose motif, in black on beige or the brand’s signature red, was far from the only piece that suggested crossover appeal.
Hed Mayner’s fall collection exists in the space “between despair and ultimate hope,” shows once again his obsession with silhouette. Hed Mayner designs like a poet, operating instinctively and emotionally, more interested with how a garment will feel on the skin, move about the body. Presenting the compositions of clothes with gestures cut into them, there is something more direct in his latest offering， the neck becomes elongated, the shoulder exaggerated, creating something unbalanced on the body.
Mayner’s leave a big mark of coats, double-breasted wool styles and clever Macintoshes promise artful protection against the elements. A first foray into prints, done with Liberty fabrics, is a counter to the almost-businessman spirit of his wide blazers. It’s about injecting an energy, a vibe here is one of movement, clothes are moving, dripping down off shoulders, pooling around the ankles, or cinching up at the waist, tucking in under heels and into flat buckled shoes. Quilted faux-leather scarves and squares of Liberty fabric are hung around necks or clipped onto lapels and belt loops.
Ami’s collection revolves around the Paris métro, as an omnipresent urban reference. A public space where everyone mixes and blends, without discrimination, it’s like a mirror of the city’s style and host to developing trends, boasted sleek lines and classic designs paired with pops of vibrant colors and dynamic shapes. Nodding to quintessential Paris.
Ami blurs the lines between casual chic, offering mens and womenswear that encapsulates a French nonchalance, relaxed and authentic. Ami reinterpreted its traditional sophisticated style as long trenches, elongated lines, sleek shapes and solid vibrants were the theme of the runway. Patterns were scarce and colorblocking was bold, allowing for a mix-and-match of evening and everyday wear. Classic silhouettes with innovative shapes elevated chic casuals into fashion-forward garments perfect for a variety of settings. AMI delivered originality at Paris Fashion Week, with a transcendental show that encapsulated modernity and a versatile line to bring Parisian flair to any wearer.
Acne Studios comes at fashion for the Gen Z shoppers, the new geranation consider it’s vert important for them to present themselves. Fashion has become almost as important as religion which need to feel than by close observation. Acne staple, leather shorts pair with a sheer tie front long sleeve printed in a subtle baroque-esque pattern. Both the leather and sheer elements continue down the runway taking different forms in dusty grays, yellowy browns, and rich neutrals. The structure of the hide, in stitched two-tone pants and cream mini skirts, juxtaposes the flowing see through chiffon, in slip dresses and matching bonnets.
Floral-embossed corsets mix in over one-piece monotone ensembles, following western-inspired outwear. Belt buckles find new uses around collars and as straps to leather tank tops. Modern takes on knit come in sets. A particular sky blue cardigan buttoned up with a matching skirt and chain-like belt resemble a Gen Z take on a classic Chanel tweed suit. Pops of yellow, blue, maroon, and green swim in an ocean of an organic neutrals. Attention to detail allows the pieces to feel refined. Dresses highlight boning with sheer fabric. Tiny bows scatter over the entirety of a co-ord or add an element at the hem of skirt. Knit garments lean deconstructive with simulated pulls. The collection propels recent trends, from corseting to subversive basics while also incorporating elements of crochet and platform shoes.
Rhude present its collection titled “Bull Market,” the latest ripple in Villaseñor’s ongoing exploration of nouveau luxury. Inspried by the modern Wall Street, young investors, swanky ’80s stockbrokers, Rhude prioritizing becoming the go-to clothier for this new breed of techno-art investor.
Comfort and mobility is the key to the new way of working classically cut suits that emphasize comfort. Los Angeles-based tailor Denis Frison, famed for dressing Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt, has engineered the silhouettes, for both ease and panache. Highbrow sweats, sweaters, and tracksuits are continuations, ditto the leather Formula 1-inspired kits.
Y/Project’s collection infused with the Gaultier touch, interpreted it in a Y/Project way. Dominated by trompe-l’œil, illusionary graphics could be made out from the vast space as something that flirts with and questions gender as a concept. It’s something Gaultier has been doing for years, working with body prints and anatomical graphics to redefine the wearer’s form,
Y/Project present heatmap-esque graphics, by using trompe-l’œil the graphics subvert expectations as they appear on everyone. As such, a muscled ab-packed top can be seen underneath a suit that’s covered in the same purple and green-toned illusionary effect. Jackets are oversized and drape from the shoulders, meeting pleated skirts halfway for a full ensemble, while other double-denim looks are again covered in trompe-l’œil before being twisted and rearranged in the brand’s typical manner.
Uniforme Fall Winter 2022 collection entitled “Plasma”, the most personal and introspective collection to date for the creative duo. Inspired by the idea of timeless wardrobe, built layer by layer, the collection features the anti-trend lineup of alternative essentials, based on brand’s signature icons. It includes the oversized shirting, tailoring and cuffed trousers, as well as the bomber, outerwear and wool/cashmere blend sweaters with a double collar.
A tightly edited take of essentials. Elemental looks are worked in anthracite cashmere, flannel, and cotton wool. A volcano erupts on lava orange silkscreened squares, giving pieces extra dynamism while evoking the toll the fashion industry exacts on the planet’s resources. Cozy cashmere turtlenecks sported double collars. Overcoats added small pleats at the back to allow adjustments as needed as well as nearly undetectable elongated elbow patches, both tiny tweaks designed to make the garment more durable and built to last.
Issey Miyake Presented the collection “A Voyage in Descent”, introduced through a film by Yuichi Kodama. The film revealed for the season a series of fluid garments embodying things found out on the water, like silence and tranquility, or new discoveries. This collection is inspired by a voyage into the deep sea, beginning with a portrayal of the silence and tranquility first felt in the water, and continuing to the uplifting sensation of making new discoveries in the deep sea. This voyage serves as inspiration to the original designs and making of the collection expressed through fluid, dynamic garments and lightweight, glistening materials.
The video presents a riveting world built upon the collection theme of undersea exploration. As the music progresses and builds up to a pervading, tense ambience, various scenes introduce models onstage, expressing qualities of fluency and elegance before descending further into the sea. Down in the depths of the sea, through mysterious and wavering dimming light, spectacles appear one after another, leading to the uplifting moments of the last scene.
Songzio collection Titled ‘Metamorphoses’ after Ovid’s poem, presents a collection with opposing aesthetics: Oriental yet Western, Rough yet elegant, angular yet rounded, dark yet colorful. With the highlighting notion of Metamorphosis, this season’s pieces are transformative, multi layered and multi textural. The collection seeks to capture the primitive metamorphosis of persona in a moonlit night. Songzio’s protagonist, the ‘misanthrope’, a man of stark appearance yet of poetic sensibilities, travels through the violent and dark rocks protected by the blue moonlight. As he walks through the spectral valley of silence and echo, darkness and light, eeriness and beauty, he is revealed and transformed.
The collection begins with Songzio’s signature color, Vermilion and otherwise dominated by black. As the collection progresses, vivid colors of yellow, orange and pink reveal themselves representing the metamorphosis of the collection’s protagonist. This collection is characterized by the heavy use of multi textured fabrics from brand’s signature handmade ‘cracked’ fabric with metal inner lining, light to heavy boucle, metal vinyl, technical satin, tafta, fine & heavy cotton and wool gabardine.
Rains’s collection entitled “SKYWATCHER”, realised across eleven designs including reinterpretations of the “wrap” silhouettes. Rains draws its colors from that of the Northern Lights. “Slate” and “Cement” are joined with blacks, navys and greens, and sit alongside vibrant hues like “Silver Pine”, “Digital Lime” and the aforementioned “Sky Pink”. Arid tote, handbags and backpacks serve as accessories for FW22, while the brand looks to be extending its footwear offering with a debut solo-designed collection, the category also includes a new premium Block Puffer Jacket and Block Puffer Coat which are characterized by blocky chamber geometry and exclusive padded pockets.
SEAN SUEN presented the Fall Winter 2022.23 Menswear Collection with a video and a lookbook. Known for sharp suiting, the designer has added a softer touch to his latest collection, examining the changing emotions brought on by traumatizing human experiences and the process of self reconciliation in times of loneliness and helplessness. The collection examines the changing emotions brought on by traumatizing human experiences and the process of self reconciliation in times of loneliness and helplessness.
The looks remain true to designer’s aesthetic, based on the colorless series of black, white, and gray, and introducing earth tone colors symbolizing nature. Based on a neutral palette of black, white and gray – the colorless series was completed by cream, beige and brown – the collection featured long, voluminous silhouettes, with suits, coats, down jackets and loose sweaters, combining and layering to bring out different lengths and proportions. Around textures, using many cold-resistant fabrics, such as worsted wool, mohair, knitwear, corduroy or leather. Everything seems to build like protective armor.
Louis Vuitton‘s show pay tribute to the last by its late artistic director, Virgil Abloh. The collection presented itself as a coming-of-age story, immersed in a dreamlike sound design crafted by Tyler. The show alternated models and dancers, intertwining fashion runway and performances. A meeting between artifacts and archetypes, the garments re-encoded the wardrobes that had become quintessential to Abloh’s creative vision – tailoring, sportswear, skirts, hacked as only he knew how: this included cartoon characters emerging on knitwear and hoodies, as well as a graphic play with the Louis Vuitton monogram, visibly questioning the place of the logo in society.
The show made the most of the men’s suit, which appeared with extra wide shoulders, as if to question the superhuman and posthuman quality of the body. Reflecting on issues of “originality, provenance, reference and self-reference,” Abloh also included a variety of dresses, full length ones with pleats and tulle, and even a bridal model. As for accessories, Abloh’s knack for masculine it-bags was apparent in a variety of designs including climbing bags and rubberized crocodile bags, some filled with leather cut out flowers and others adorned in sequins.
Yohji Yamamoto’s new collection with all-black signature was prevalent throughout the collection as most of the pieces played with the idea of intermixing silhouettes and fabrics as opposed to focusing on pops of color. Amongst the collection, the surrealist work of Polish painter Zdzisław Beksiński are used as prints for some of Yohji Yamamoto’s pieces this season, including the leopard print patterned coats. The overcoats and suits feature splashes of navy, green and brown, resembling that of an artist’s brushstroke. Additional accessories including crucifixes, monocles, brooches and masks also made an appearance in the looks presented on the runway.
The suiting appears to have taken inspiration from the Dickensian British-era bloke. Frock coats were layered with waistcoats, baggy trousers, messily tied cravats and flowing white shirts reminiscent of those worn in the 1800s. The relaxed look goes hand in hand with Yamamoto’s staple slouchy silhouette. The pieces feature exposed seams and hems, a nod to the aesthetic most notably synonymous with one of Dickens’ most iconic characters, the Artful Dodger.
Rick Owens’s new collection that rise from the headdresses of the imaginary messiahs of a new era, these are opposite other garments boasting the provocative. Rick Owens compared the Land Art of the 1970s to the emerging meta-stuff, but remained refreshingly detached. Much more passionately he dug deep into the Made In Italy provenance of his pieces, dishing detail on the family companies that fashion his progressive fashion with artisanal techniques.
From metal meshed torso to the mask-era zipupable hoods, it was a presentation that wallowed wantonly in the hormonally driven. The on-and-off-again lighting meant that much of the detail—the goat hair, the duchesse, the patchwork shearling—was suppressed from the eye: what was left were silhouettes. These were alien masculine, wonderfully unconventional and diverse, and ranged from Owen’s originally parodic mega shoulder to whorled arthropod curlings rendered in piumino.
Ungaro Collection drew inspiration from the iconic museums of Paris west bank, focusing on structure, function and comfort. The architecture of the Palais de Tokyo inspired the straight lines of an off-white wool coat and other urban elements of the collection in shades of gray. At the Musée Bourdelle, he picked up the warmer tones in the color palette, creating a range of looks in textured fabrics like corduroy and flannel, and shirts with graphic, colorful prints. From the Quai Branly, influences from other cultures and civilizations came into play, offering continuity from the label’s spring collection, inspired by the textiles of Rajasthan. Tailored jackets and coats, and pants with hidden elastic waists, were easygoing and elegant.
Enthusiastic about the importance of fabrics with an emphasis on textures and surface appearance that continuously undergoes updating and researching for that perfect fabric in the House of Ungaro. Ungaro is renowned for quality clothing in tasteful colours. The fall-winter collection features ultra-light jackets, oversized coats on fluid pants and reinterpreted denim or embroidered t-shirts with animal logos. Ungaro encompassed fun with a pure Italian style, designed and tailored with care and consideration that consciously focused on modern living.
Paul Smith reprised elements of the mid-century couture presentation format, the collection transformed into a brightly colored paradise. Brimming with jewel tones, fruity shades and vibrant ombré blends, this paint box of a collection catapulted viewers into a new world.Most of the color and decoration was directly drawn from the area around Lucca in Tuscany. The chief motif was the sunflower, fields of which patchwork the landscape midsummer, and which brightened many pieces.
Among Paul Smith‘s weird and wonderful looks was a brown shearling jacket with deep raspberry fur; a chunky, oversize mauve sweater, and a teal tailored suit overlaid with a matching knitted vest. One model was dressed entirely in cranberry, another in shamrock green. There was also knitwear done in Smith’s signature, multicolored stripes; colorful zigzags on a fuzzy ombré twinset, and photo prints based on movie posters, old Hollywood studio headshots and cinema interiors. Plaids, checks and gray wool were in the mix, too.
Juun.J’s youth and street culture-inspired collection looks towards a future of traveling without restrictions, taking inspiration from the jet-setters of the 60s and 70s, as well as contemporary pop stars who “represent newness and youth”. Juun.J used ultra-light blended fabrics to express lightness in such a way that wind blowing from a certain angle gives the clothes extra volume and creates rich silhouettes.
Oversized fits paired with unconventional mini-length pants, skirts and military motif accessories create new and unique stylings. Red and blue are used as highlight colors against a more muted background of black, navy, gray, and khaki. Juun.Jis combined with reworked takes on classics such as the CWU-8/P military parka. Over-dyeing and blue denim as point colors inform a palette of black, brown, and deep green, which further lend themselves to the overall aviation theme.
Isabel Marant featuring an abundance of baggy pants, bucket hats, and oh-so-many jackets tied at the waist, line proves that nineties style is back. The color palette of the collection is one grounded in coffee-colored neutrals. An occasional pop of pale blue, bright yellow, or shocking orange acts as a leavener to the collection’s more basic counterparts. An ode to casual fashion, each piece inspires a reflection on the charm of grunge and all its components. The Marant man is well-suited for winter, whether draped under a hoodie, a jacket, and a scarf or merely donning a sweater, comfort and warmth, with the aesthetic.
Maison Mihara Yasuhiro
Maison Mihara Yasuhiro present its collection with a short film, Inspired by the contradiction of Mihara Yasuhiro’s disdain for flying. Yasuhiro’s unique design technique of deconstruction has been heavily updated with a fresh approach to the brands signature style. The “Replicant” idea, which focuses on vintage wear whilst adding Yasuhiro’s individual style, has become a very important technique within the collection. The exaggerated silhouettes and distinctive methods of layering are an idea that Yasuhiro challenges.
Mihara mixed ’90s influences with reinterpretations of about 25 vintage styles, which he called “new used clothes” and which included everything from shirts and pants to outerwear. The collection was rich in color and texture, with relaxed silhouettes and lots of layering. For men, Mihara showed loosely tailored suits, oversized bomber jackets and vertically striped shirts. His women’s collection included slinky ribbed pants, long, brightly colored knit skirts, and glittery tops. He included plenty of loose-fitting denim, shaggy knits, and softly draped trenchcoats for both genders.
Dior devoted the collections to collaborations with artists and writers, approached his 75th anniversary homage to the house as a one-man show. Drawing on silhouettes from early collections of the 75-year-old label, which belongs to LVMH, the designer tweaked the house’s famously feminine bar jacket offering a version for men. Grounded in a classic color palette of gray, camel and blue with pops of animal print and ethereal florals, Dior presented a harmonious and decidedly refined assortment of garments.
The runway was overflowing with highly structured jackets, featuring considered and sleek tailoring, gathering fabric at the waist for a cinched yet romantic look. Brightened the lineup’s muted palette of grey, beige and ivory tones with embroidered lily-of-the-valley flower patterns and shimmery patches of sequins, applying them to sweaters and sleek puffer jackets. The collection elevated Dior’s strong utilitarian sensibilities with an element of medieval glamour in the form of glistening chainmail vests, layered atop sharp button down shirts, adding a touch of drama to monochromatic pantsuits. As the Birkenstock collaboration complemented a selection of looks, balancing formal suits with relaxed footwear, while other outfits were accented with classic brogue shoes adorned with extravagant jewels.
Jil Sander’s collection, luxurified two very Gen Z trends: crochet and astrology. With comfort and adaptability at the heart of their design, the collection merged dualities such as day and night, work and play, utility and glamour to provide everyone with the idea of establishing a blank canvas on which to build a sense of self. The silhouette was structured, self-confident and casual at the same time. The color palette explored the brand’s familiar minimalist range of black and white, which this time was mixed with other warmer hues like touches of orange, yellow and green or burgundy and steel blue. Elsewhere, a leopard print and zigzag print added a touch of style while hand drawings of the zodiac signs printed onto coats and shirts and appearing in knitwear bring out the individuality.
The show opened with a classically understated, all-black ensemble: a clean-cut wool coat paired with leather trousers, a crocheted hat, and matching kerchief-like collar. The clean, boxy tailoring stood out, especially when enlivened with the glossy, peak lapels of a tuxedo. Other experimentations in crochet, including a zig-zag sweater vest and many more doily-like hats, embodied the DIY spirit of knitting, without verging into arts-and-crafts territory.
Officine Générale’s collection tited Jusqu’au-boutiste”, which means going all the way and pursuing something to the bitter end, the desire to refine to the nth degree permeates every aspect of his label, Mahéo prefers good-quality clothes made in Europe in classic cuts that vary only by the odd centimeter every season. Officine Générale explore new depths on its own, observe Parisians in greater detail, to decipher the allure of men and women who possess a great sense of style without ever overdoing it. Officine Générale designing this collection by reinterpreting the cuts of the uniforme and the suit, both of which are made up of pieces of the same color.
Insriped by Hutton, a collection that played on the aesthetics of a woman wearing masculine clothing, subtly altering his silhouettes accordingly. This resulted in what he described as a “calmly oversize” aesthetic, some crafted from soft yet structured recycled wool, were a little on the large side, comfortably enveloping the body. It yielded a lineup of brand’s essentials with monochrome looks, in eye-catching navy, olive green, gray, ivory and lavender tones. Monochrome looks and layering were key, with scarves made to match the outfits, yarns for knitwear specially dyed to tone in, and over-shirts for that extra layer. For the pants, he played with pleating, offering up a range of shapes in denim, wool and flannel.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten found a sartorial expression for these uneasy times, colorful, explosive, manic, euphoric… The vibes i are unmistakably feverish with the impulse to go out and go crazy with dressing up again. Dries Van Noten with the desire for going to extremes, all kinds of crazy experiments, handmade smocking, fluffy things, jacquards, silks. Different types of sparkle—different shine, depths of glimmer. All this stuff,” he said, laughing.
This slightly puffed sleeve head, achieved with a cigar of horsehair and wadding, also fed the gender-fluid mood of his fall men’s collection, which featured sparkly lurex pants and filmy shirts intermingled with oversized puffer jackets and handsome, double-breasted topcoats. Quirky accessories added to the playful, carefree spirit of the collection: thin, glittering scarves, or bucket hats made of the same mohair fluff employed by German teddy-bear maker Steiff. Quilted board shorts and shocking pink trousers, offbeat styles that keep cropping up in men’s collections this season.
GmbH’s collection titled “Talisman”, focused on a very personal exploration of religion, couture and sex. GmbH questioned the constraints in their religious schooling during their teenage years, and the thirst for freedom and self-assertion. These conflicting feelings were reflected in a mixture of codes borrowed from vintage haute couture and Arab spirituality.
Caftans and tunics paired with thigh high boots became dresses when worn without trousers, exposing a part of flesh on the upper thigh; huge coats and double-breasted one-button suits were worn with knitted skull cap that were nods to taqiyah, also called kufi, topi or takke depending on region. Other pieces with exaggerated collars and cuffs in synthetic fur and exposed backs referenced mid-20th century haute couture details. And on some of the silk pieces, there were printed inscriptions in Arabic calligraphy.
LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi
Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s fall collection tited “Artificial Paradises,” to show bodies types don’t usually see in men’s wear. Louis Gabriel Nouchi played with the confrontation between dressing up for a night out and staying at home in one’s underwear — a fast-growing category for the label — by pairing bodysuits with tracksuit bottoms; throwing a jacket over tank tops and boxer shorts, and even offering a dress. Ties akimbo, fine knit tops laddered, coats and jackets only half-on.
Steven Passaro’s collection titled “We Feel Things They’ll Never Feel”, intended as an ode to hypersensitivity, it is born with a deep sense of time and dreams of self expression. Drawing from initial concepts, Passaro reaffirms the themes that define the identity of his signature tailoring, unfurled in a panoply of layers, folds and asymmetries. Masculinity is clearly meant as sensitive, and is revealed on the cuff of a shirt as well as in the corner of an eye.
Steven Passaro employed fastidious detailing, pre-Struggle kinds in muted hues. Block heels of the Nineteen Seventies blended with the unfastened or dropped waists of the Twenties, whereas outsized coats appeared at as soon as Nineteen Thirties and style ahead. The low vitality of the restricted colour palette of autumnal taupes, beiges, blue-grays was efficient in giving this funky assortment a classicism. Even the standard denim jacket evoked a timeless vibe, rendered unfastened and clear lined, with the texture of a younger, optimistic Fifties United States.
Auralee Collection explores comfort with minimalistic, and sophisticated approach, on January 22nd, during the recently finished Paris Fashion Week. A beautiful new tweed was created in-house, developed for the first time with modernized ancient machines and artisanal techniques, honoring tradition while achieving up-to-date results. Robust and warm in its textured look, it actually feels featherlight and has a unique soft touch.
Auralee made from high standard materials, subtly tweaks proportions and updates classic wardrobe staples. Lines have clarity and definition yet convey ease and comfort. The outwear pieces are voluminous and weightless, with protective feel, while tailoring is effortlessly elegant. Looks appear deceptively tonal, but the nuanced layering of different textures and fabrics chromatically adjacent within the same piece adds depth, emphasizing textural variations. As always in the label’s collections, the starting point is the creation of high-quality, unpareil fabrications utilizing the best raw materials sourced from around the world.
Loewe‘s newest silhouettes uncovered the world of Renaissance painter Pontormo. Described as “neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical,” which takes up the Dadaist lexicon that is translated into a state-of-the-art men’s wardrobe. Trompe l’oeil catsuit of muscular physique, t-shirt with the mirror representation of the portrait of the model wearing it and metallic applications of sink drains that fill wool coats, sweaters, and leather bags. Tight shirts and coats with bright LEDs inserted during construction enhance the hedonistic spirit of the British creative director.
The latest Loewe collection experiments with draping, sculpting and color. Coats and dresses are seen incorporated with metal plates, while denim pieces boast exaggerated proportions. Elsewhere, select sequin dresses with flounces feature a more playful take on an ordinary thigh slit. Continuing the artistic theme, other designs arrive in the form of sculptural dresses and wing-like capes. Pumps and sandals have been given a quirky twist — heels come in ready-made shapes such as soap bars, candles, eggs, a nail polish bottle and a rose. Accessories include the draped Goya long clutch, the Flamenco crafted from teddy bear fabric, the Luna bag and the Hammock Nugget boasting new proportions.
Airei revealed its clothing lineup with the theme of “plight”, a message is one of resilience, that’s why “glory” is hand-stitched into one shirt. The collection aims to celebrate the “challenge and struggle of design and beauty in life,” and urges to push beyond our own limits. A strong collection with striking contrasts and fine thread-work woven throughout. Airei artfully crafts yarns, such as Italian recycled cashmere, and fabrics, like Japanese denim. There was a chunky ecru parka fashioned from khadi blanket strips knitted together. A loosely knit gray sweater overlayed a long button-down white shirt with red threads hanging at heart level. A hoodie, with rough edges and seams, came double-layered.
Kolor’s collection was a celebration of color and the return of the pleasure of dressing again. Combining different lengths and cuts, made colors and layering its strengths. The color palette combined red, green and navy blue, associated with other colors like orange and brown while the collection’s signature accessory was the wide-brim hat, made in collaboration with designer Kijima Takayuki, adding a slightly retro touch to the looks.
Hermes’s collection delivered an atypical glam rock twist to luxuriant wares, infusing the typically high fashion designs with a subtle yet distinct 1980s kick. Hermes has become a byword for simple, unpretentious luxury, there was no far-flung concept, gimmick or muse. High waists on pleated wool pants cut a contrast with retro bucket hats that sloped down. The collection featured a bolder color palette flecked with browns, bronzes, and what the house poetically. Sheeny gunmetal leather riding boots accessorized zipper-filled loose bomber jackets.
Henrik Vibskov’s Collection, explores from outer space, different ways of archiving one’s belongings and memories of Earth. The Biblioteca of Micro Selves collection brings old school pieces alongside futuristic, and functional looks. The silhouettes are bulky and voluminous, with details inspired by protection gear. A dream-toned landscape is revealed. vintage stuff, mixed with a weird futurism”. Retro elements emerge by way of puffed sleeves and shrunken collars, checked wool coats and grandma florals. Meanwhile, we find a sort of dystopian futurism in the sharply tailored suits. One could imagine a technical lilac knit look, covered in small soft spikes, as standard issue uniforms in some distant reality.
Spaceships, moon landscapes and mountains from another solar system appear on prints in dark colors with a sudden glimpse of light. Black, brown, beige, dark red, navy-blue, with a pop of mandarin, lilac and deep purple. The prints are pulsing with blurred light, like car lights on a rainy dark horizon or a flickering tv screen. Planets are drifting in an unfamiliar galaxy like symbols and patches of space stations are to find on checked, vintage-like fabric Craft jumpsuit in greywashed navy denim, Apollo vest with special binding, Orbit dress with placement pockets and Helium denim dungarees. An eccentric sculptural plissé group in a florescent print of flashing lights and planets. The paper plane knit is an assembly instruction and the jacquard knit reveals floating moon landscapes and spaceships.
Casablanca’s Collection pays tribute to Paris, the Le Monde Diplomatique collection was inspired by the designer’s youthful memories of Paris at the end of the nineties – the era of the Concorde and Lady Diana, and Dodi Al Fayed at the Ritz. The collection that explores the fantasy and surrealism of Paris, also explores traveling theme. For the season, the brand fuses comfort and style in a modern way.
White Mountaineering’s collection represents a link between Tokyo and mountain life. Bustling city energy can be a source of inspiration, but so can solitude, and this season Aizawa sought serenity. Eager to share the beauty of his surroundings and the mood they evoked, he set out to imbue his clothing with a sense of calm. White Mountaineering‘s silhouettes have changed a lot, by realize that comfort is more important than previously considered, pants, for example, have become more relaxed. To complement the loose-fitting trousers, Aizawa showed long checked ponchos, collarless coats, camp jackets and fishing vests.
The palette consisted mainly of muted neutrals, the designer also included deep shades of indigo, orange and ochre, as well as an updated version of his signature red and black checks. For textiles, he focused on functional fabrics with unique properties, such as puffer jackets made from fire resistant nylon, and suit jackets lined in Gore-Tex. The overarching mood of the collection was best represented by the optical illusion of a faux “camouflage” pattern. At first glance, the playful print seemed military issue, but a quick zoom in revealed green and white flower petals that are guaranteed to elicit smiles.
KidSuper presented the new collection in a fun-filled film. The collection film functions as a pilot for a television series titled “The Misadventures of KidSuper.” As the brand’s ethos is rooted in love for the cosmopolitan nature of New York City, the episode presents an imaginative look at the big city.
By exhibiting the personality-filled stories that makeup New York City, the film divulges an extremely personal way of showcasing clothes. In true KidSuper fashion, the only guiding theme of the collection’s designs is its commitment to showcasing everything high and low. The new offering features a wide array of pieces like suits, graphic outerwear, oversized crewneck sweaters, multicolored corduroy cargo pants, tracksuits and more. There’s almost no need to list colors that make up the collection as the plethora of fabrics like corduroy, plaid, houndstooth, silk, patchwork and more contain every color of the rainbow. Finishing off the eclectic collection are art-inspired prints and fun sports-centered graphics.
Kenzo’s Fall 2022 collection, a tribute to former designer Takada’s first store and show location in 1970. Kenzo creating originality was through understanding of many different cultures. Kenzo drawing on the charmingly patchworked feel of early designs, opening with a checked blanket coat over Black Watch tartan trousers and a delicate, embroidered cross body bag. The brand’s famous print appeared as an outline, and printed over full denim looks for men and women, while Kenzo’s own sketches arrived as patterning on coats, suits and full skirts.
Davide Marello’s new collection injecting romanticism into masculine wardrobe classics, Marello offers a specific signature to the men’s fashion space, and this brooding collection with its darker narrative gave his aesthetic an added dose of substance.
Davide Marello expanding on the floral prints, taken from original paintings, around which he builds his designs, he worked with animal patterns, aiming to give the collection a more sensual quality, in a melancholy palette of black, brown, khaki and beige with hints of moody purple. He splashed these across his canvas tailoring and statement wool coats, softening the silhouette with fluid viscose shirts with polo neck collars and shadowy vegetal motifs, knotted neckerchiefs or knits with feline stripes in a jacquard of merino and transparent mohair.
Wooyoungmi continues the house’s ethos of modern elegance. Bringing an atmosphere of nostalgia and old glamor, this season the brand focuses on pops of color, highlighting jewel-toned green, pink, orange and blue, a palette is derived from the iconic Saint Basil’s Cathedral. Inspired by “A Gentleman in Moscow”, the novel by Amor Towles, Wooyoungmi plays with layering, stacking thin layers on top of each other so as not to create heaviness in thickness, while loose-fitting pants and jeans are often tucked into boots for a puffy effect, ready for the cold weather.
Wooyoungmi features a contemporary take on monastic headdresses, fastened at the front as scarf-like mini capes. Wooyoungmi builds on its balaclava collection as well as fresh silhouettes that include a series of cropped knitwear and jackets. The collection intermingles soft tailoring with utilitarian structures including classic bomber jackets and overcoats. Favoring a multi-colored tone, denim button-ups and pants sport a tie-dye effect while color-blocked knitwear continues to display uneven lines for a smudging effect of shades. The layering of overcoats with knit vests and button-down shirts gives the outfits a sense of depth and complexity, though designs are kept minimal.
Doublet make an analogue metaverse,insprised by Olympics and Paralympics in Japan, the designer staged his show at an outdoor photo studio that was a full-sized replica of the iconic Shibuya crossing in Tokyo. Ino showed genderless, softly tailored suits and separates in basic black, shocking pink and leopard print. These were complemented by more casual tracksuits, denim jackets spray painted with hearts, shrunken animal motif knits, and loose-fitting corduroy pants. There were also puckered and ribbed jersey pieces that stretched to accommodate the body of the wearer, and cozy fleece pullovers, jackets and shorts in oversize shapes.
The designer’s theme of diversity was mirrored in his choice of models, which included both cis and transgender men and women, as well as differently abled models who traveled the runway in a wheelchair or with the help of a prosthetic leg. Each one was beautifully unique, and yet with the addition of Doublet’s custom made masks for the season, there was also an element of uniformity. During the finale, when the models all tore off their masks and joyously skipped or rolled across the intersection, the beauty of diversity was in plain view.
Arturo Obegero’s collection titled “Rue de Rome” after the Parisian street reputed for its musical instrument-makers, with a imagined an orchestra conducted by Serge Lutens, the French perfumer and creative polymath, there was a kinship between these surreal visuals that he described as expressing “something so sexual, so perverted but super classic, elegant and extremely refined” and the dark romanticism he imparts with his own work.
Obegero’s silhouettes stayed the course of dramatic tailoring that he has been exploring, the appreciation of tailoring is once more exalted and reaches its peak in the form of the Don Juan 100% virgin wool three-piece pinstripe suit. The black Querelle waistcoats, whether in technical jersey or sequins, exude the sort of classic elegance for which the designer is known. The style’s deep, round neckline oozes sensuality. The scarlet and black Principe top, a hybrid of a waistcoat and a Grecian-inspired drape, is a perfect representative of the brand’s sartorial ethos. Structure and fluidity.
Walter Van Beirendonck
Walter Van Beirendonck’s collection moved away from usual color blocking and focused on monochromatic color schemes and articulated structures. Vivid colors like bright oranges, neon pinks and blues were used to accent certain pieces for a futuristic, utilitarian look. Other pieces include vibrant graphics on skin-tight pants and tops commenting on the reality and fiction of current society. Alien masks accompanied these looks as a nod to the house’s playful imagery and drama. Take a look above at this season’s looks.
Utilizing various fabrics with the same hues, Van Beirendonck created new looks that saw lightweight Neoprene-like material constructed in a way that gave off an effect similar to that of crocodile leather with its shiny texture. This collection saw a major focus on the shoulder as the essential body part. The shoulders are accentuated and rounded and offer different levels of volume as the shoulders can be constructed or deconstructed, creating alternative looks with oversized sleeves.
Sacai’s collection delving into “the pure essence of Sacai”. It’s “really about self-assurance and self-confidence”, the silhouettes are loose, often playing with layers to create volume. For women, this energy is seen through lingerie-inspired elements on select outerwear, including jackets with bra cups and bra lines across the front and back.
Wales Bonner’s collection titled “Togetherness”, was meant to be an evocation of the holistic way of life with exuberant creative rhythms, embodied by the Cherry couple’s bohemian lifestyle. The result was an assortment of colors, textures and craftsmanship, including hand woven cottons made in Burkina Faso. The designer also unveiled here her new collaborative creation for adidas Originals, with Gazelles reimagined in jewel tones and a sporty Mary-Jane in shimmering brocade.