Marsillargues, Herault, Occitania, France

Marsillargues is a French commune of just over 6,000 inhabitants which is part of the Community of communes of the Pays de Lunel. It is located in the canton of Lunel, in the department of Hérault. The city is situated on the Vidourle river, at mid distance of Montpellier and Nîmes. The commune lies on a vast plain, quite marshy in the south part, which is called Petite Camargue. It is surrounded by a belt of boulevards bordered by hundred-year-old plane trees which constitute a natural promenade protected from the sun by hot summer days.

Marsillargues is located in continental Europe, in the south-east of France, on the edge of the Vidourle, equidistant from Montpellier and Nîmes and about fifteen kilometers from the Mediterranean Sea. At its extreme eastern limit, Vidourle constitutes its natural border with the Gard department. The three closest towns are Aimargues, in the direction of Vauvert, Saint-Laurent-d’Aigouze, in the direction of Aigues-Mortes and Lunel in the west. The commune of Marsillargues is the easternmost commune of the Hérault department. Marsillargues is the second town in the canton of Lunel.

History
Cultivated vines have been present on this terroir for 5,000 years according to pollen diagrams with a notable increase in the year 300 BC. Originally, the village was probably a fishing village made up of huts located near Vidourle, there is also a rue des Pêcheurs.

The village from the Middle Ages was under the tutelage of the famous Psalmodie abbey, whose name is probably derived from the eternal chants that the monks spoke. This abbey also owned most of the surrounding land. It is even claimed that an underground passage communicated with the old feudal castle of Marsillargues.

The current castle is in the Renaissance style. Until the Revolution, Marsillargues was in the diocese of Nîmes. In 1790, it was separated from it to integrate the department of Hérault.

After the Second World War, the village turned mainly to viticulture which became its main resource. After having experienced ups and downs and even after the damage caused by “mildew”, the vine remained until the years 1958; the local cooperative cellar was in the 1950s and 1960s the first in Europe in terms of the quantity of wine produced. With the difficulties encountered by the massive production of “cut wine” which has proved difficult to sell, the winegrowers are encouraged by bonuses to uproot the vines. A new activity is being set up: fruit growing (apples, peaches, nectarines, etc.), but it is in turn experiencing shortness of breath. It is a municipality of 5,700 inhabitants which is part of the Community of municipalities of the Pays de Lunel. It is located in the canton of Lunel, in the department of Hérault. Its inhabitants are the Marsillarguois. They are nicknamed “the bajans”, literally the “fools” in Languedoc.

Sights

Guillaume de Nogaret’s Castle
The castle was founded in 1305 by Guillaume de Nogaret, who became Lord of Marsillargues, in reward of his services returned to Philip IV, King of France. From the feudal castle, only the basements, the large kitchens and the keep with its square tower remain. The castle was founded in 1305 by Guillaume de Nogaret, who obtained the seigneuries of Marsillargues; Calvisson, Congénies, Aujargues, Manduel, Beauvoisin, Générac, Vergèze, among others, as a reward for his services rendered to King Philippe IV le Bel. Of the feudal castle, only part of the basement remains, the large kitchens and the keep with its square turret.

North Wing
Around 1560, Jean de Louet de Calvisson undertook the construction of a new castle on the site of that of his ancestor. The north wing was then completely redone: facade and interior staircase with core wall. This facade is very modern with its raised floor between a sloping base and a blind attic floor topped with a flat roof. It is punctuated by openings and piers surmounted by alternately curvilinear and triangular pediments. But the rigor of the implementation contrasts with the total irregularity of the facade. The whole presents a very rich decoration and a taste for the detail pronounced. Thus, while the piers are adorned with cartouches, volutes, bucrânes… The twelve bas-reliefs of the attic are carved with garlands of fruit held by lion’s muzzle masks, chubby heads or bearded faces, palms, bucrânes … Many weapon trophies celebrate the military exploits of their owner, while various emblems pay tribute to the royal power: porcupine of Louis XII; salamander of François I and moon and Monogram Diane de Poitiers.

This representation is a clear manifestation of the family’s loyalty to the reigning dynasty and allows the facade to be dated to around 1560. This facade is one of the most beautiful southern achievements of the Renaissance and is similar to that of the Ducal castle of Uzès: the author seems the same but it still remains to be identified. In 1679, Jean-Louis II de Louet de Murat de Nogaret, Marquis de Calvisson, undertook the reconstruction of part of the north wing with its large suspended staircase as well as the half-moon entrance portal. In the XVIII th cemtury, The plasterwork of the ceremonial rooms are redone at the request of Anne Joseph Louet.

South Wing
The south wing was built in 1679 at the request of Jean-Louis II de Louet de Murat de Nogaret, lieutenant general of the king in Languedoc, president of the States and marquis de Calvisson: Alexis de La Feuille, royal engineer; Gabriel Dardaillhon and Jacques Cubissol, Nîmes architects and Philippe Mauric, sculptor, undertake the work. Housing the stables, this building has a facade almost identical to that of the north wing. The representations are nevertheless more warlike and the emblems of Louis XIV proliferate. The decorative detail conforms to the tastes then in vogue in the 1670s.

Orangery
The orangery was built in 1767 by Anne-Joseph de Louet de Murat de Nogaret in order to close the ensemble formed by the north and south wings. A vast park then developed in the extension of the main courtyard. It was punctuated by circular basins, point of intersection of alleys intersecting in stars and right angles. The orangery has been rehabilitated into a municipal library. On another register, it should be noted that the bell of the church of Congénies (Gard) was sponsored in 1759 by Anne Joseph who was also the lord of this place as mentioned in the dedication it includes. This would be the only bell still existing in Languedoc mentioning the patronym of this illustrious lineage, hence its historical interest. (It was also proposed, in 2012, to classify it under HD in the “objects” section).

On the night of May 19 to 20, 1936, a catastrophic fire broke out in the row of rooms adjoining the Louis XVI gallery which was then completely destroyed, as well as the upper floor (library) and the main staircase. Only the Renaissance facade remains standing… The town hall of Marsillargues bought the castle in 1948 from the Saizieu family. The entire castle has been listed as a Historic Monument since 1995.

Saint-Sauveur Church
The church was built in 1688 by Jacques Cubissol, and houses a remarkable oil painting on canvas “La Nativité” attributed to French painter Charles Errard.

Partly Romanesque church, façade from the end of the 17 th century, listed. Inside note an oil on canvas depicting the Nativity is attributed to Charles Errard. Its bell tower topped by a graceful ornate stone spire housed until 1950 one of the oldest bells in the department dating from 1509 and classified MH. It was unfortunately recast at this time.

Protestant Temple
A Temple was first built between 1574 and 1582. During the tragic period of the French Wars of Religion, it was damaged and then repaired in 1599, only to be totally destroyed in 1685 following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The Concordat of 1801 allowed a Protestant minister to be installed at Marsillargues in 1803. Ground was broken for a new Temple in 1806, and it was finished in 1818.

Particularly imposing building and original architecture 31 meters long by 16 wide, it is the most imposing of the Protestant “low country” with a room of 500 m 2. The main facade has a large neoclassical triangular pediment surmounted by a bell tower of quite unusual architecture (dome). Beginning of construction (first stone) in 1802. It was inaugurated in 1806 when it did not yet have a ceiling. The work progressed slowly and it was not until 1818 that construction of the ceiling and stands began. If the bell tower was completed in 1823 as evidenced by its keystone, the bell was not put in place until 1826. By its great originality and its dimensions, this building would undoubtedly deserve protection as a Historic Monument. such as is the case for some of these constructions in the neighboring department of Gard.

The little temple
Also known as “free church” (branch of Protestantism), late 19 th century, a sort of neo-Gothic style chapel. The building was sold in the 1990s and is now unfortunately in a state of neglect.

The arenas
The arenas of Marsillargues, built in 1960, have been on the list of protected historic monuments since February 22, 1993.

The Paul-Pastre museum
In the courtyard of the castle, the secular hackberry tree watches over the entrance to the Paul Pastre museum, nestled in the stately home. Paul Pastre, enlightened lover of local history and archeology, discovers 2 Gallo-Roman altars in the ruins of the castle. Following this discovery, the idea of creating a museum took shape in 1949. Today, 400 m 2 of exhibitions, divided into seven rooms, invite you to discover local history through his illustrious fellow citizens, Guillaume de Nogaret, Fernand Janin, Louis Uni dit Apollon, and the objects of many others, less famous.

The museum was created by the Association Les Amis du Musée Paul Pastre in 1948. It is housed in the lower rooms of the Château, admirably furnished by the Municipality. The museum has collected all that the castle deserves to be preserved: plans, maps, tables, photos, notices, etc. Paul Pastre, enlightened lover of local history and archeology, discovers two Gallo-Roman altars in the ruins of the castle. Following this discovery, the idea of creating a museum took shape in 1949.

Today, 400 m 2 of exhibitions, divided into four rooms, invite you to discover local history through its illustrious fellow citizens, Guillaume de Nogaret, Fernand Janin, Louis Uni dit Apollon, as well as the objects of many others, less illustrious. Among the most precious pieces are a funerary stele and the two Gallo-Roman altars, a Roman tombstone, ornate marbles, a Gallic sculpture, the model of the Cooperative cellar and the lord’s sedan chair dating from 1751. Numerous donations have also been made by individuals: various objects, old or curious, various collections of coins, weapons (rifles, pistols, daggers), hairstyles and clothing for men and women, minerals, fossils… But also weapons and tools from the Neolithic period, firebacks and prints.

In 2011, the return of the restored sedan chair to the heart of the museum was an event. To the sound of a quartet invited to play in front of the small orangery for the occasion, history buffs from our village responded to the invitation of the Friends of the Museum association to attend. A booklet has also been produced on its history, that of the Château de Marsillargues and the Paul Pastre museum. In particular, it teaches us what was the place of sedan chairs in society and sheds light on that of our museum. Due to an estimate found in the museum’s archives, it was first estimated to date from 1752. Subsequently, it turned out that this document did not concern it and that our chair would in fact be contemporary with Louis XIV. and therefore comparable to that kept at the Petit Palais in Paris. It is therefore part of the circle of 23 chairs from the same period listed by historical monuments.

The Paul Pastre museum is part of the heritage of the city of Marsillargues, thanks to its promotion by the City on the territory and the great availability of members of the Friends of the Paul Pastre Museum.

Traditions
Following a custom spread throughout the Mediterranean world having been strongly influenced by Latin, the inhabitants received a nickname (in Occitan, an “escais”) always slightly ironic and mocking: the “bajans”, literally the “simpletons” in Languedocien. The particularity of the village is that it is located in Petite Camargue, region of bullfighting traditions. The ultimate expression of these traditions is reached during the votive festivals, generally organized at the beginning of August and which last about ten days. The program of these days is organized, with the participation of the municipality, by the bullfighting clubs, the most famous of which will celebrate its eightieth anniversary in 2007: “La Sounaïa”, named after the bell that hangs around the neck of the unifying bull, the “Simbèou”.

Usually, the day begins with an outing in the meadows, among the bulls and herdsmen from the various local herds. It is or rather, it was the opportunity for young and old to have a good time, to participate in the sorting of bulls, and to taste the famous grilled sausage accompanied by rosé wine. Then, the departure of the bulls from the meadows, generally from Cailar (3 km) was organized for “l’Abrivado” term which designates the arrival of the bulls surrounded by the Camargue horses ridden by the herdsmen and a whole procession of trailers filled with young men and young girls, and also people of all generations, pulled by tractors, as well as many other actors running after the bulls to try to make them escape from the procession, by grabbing their tails.

The most awaited moment for the people of Marsillargu was crossing the Vidourle bridge, recently known as “ Pont Boulet “, Where the onlookers gathered to attend the” Abrivado “. It was in principle around noon when horses and herdsmen, bulls, and caravan of companions carried out this commemorative phase of the votive festivals, every day at the same time. This “abrivado” came to an end as soon as they crossed the arena, where the bulls finally arrived at the end of the morning. The race of a “wrapped” cowhide (= with protective balls on the horns) requested by young and old alike, preceded the traditional aperitif of 13 hours. It was the moment of deserved rest after such a rich morning of events of all kinds. An orchestra was playing pasodobles which animated many couples strolling on the dance floor, while others seated around the “pedestal tables” and their gaze tender, sipped the pastis which flowed freely.

In the afternoon, a bull cockade race was organized and each Marsillarguois made it a point of honor to attend by taking their place in the stands of the arenas. The race, interrupted by an intermission, took place with six bulls. Depending on the day concerned, these bulls could be “cockades” (the stars of the herd) or anoubles (young bulls) and the amount of attributes (cockade, tassels or strings) awarded more or less. The “rasitters”, all dressed in white and the “turners” tried to perform wonders under the warm cheers of a raging audience. It was then that the third act of the day intervened: “the bandido”, that is to say the return to the bulls under the vigilance of the herdsmen with the same animation of the population.

The last act of the day was closed with huge meals, which the various groups of young people organized and which ended at dawn after the ball. The reproduction of this scenario was daily so much that the exhaustion of youth was total on the last day.

Currently, for safety reasons, the bandido and the abrivado have been modified because the route is reduced and it is limited to the crossing of Marsillargues from the arenas to the “Chicanette”. All the other points are on the whole kept in the tradition.

La Bouvine
If you happen to pass through Marsillargues in summer, around 12 p.m. or 7 p.m. you will be surprised to discover, on certain days, bulls surrounded by horses galloping happily in the streets of our towns and villages southern. Do not be surprised, you attend an Abrivado (at I2h) or a Bandido (D9h), a local custom inherited from the time when the internal combustion engine was only in its infancy. For the Gardians on horseback, the aim is to take six Bious from the herd to the Arenas where a Camargue Race will take place in the afternoon. At the end of the show, when they will have brilliantly defended the Attributes which adorn their foreheads and their beautiful slender horns against the unleashed Raseteurs,Bandido).

A first ring announces the exit of the bull, the door of the toril opens, suddenly the Biou springs majestic and full of ardor. For a minute the men in white appreciate the Cocardier as it takes its marks on the track. Then the second bell sounds authorizing the Raseteurs to carry out their Rasets equipped with a small steel comb, the Hook.
The Hook: Small steel comb allowing raseteurs to remove the various attributes. It is specially designed so as not to hurt the animal
Manade: It is a herd of bulls of more than five heads, this term extends over the property and the pastures of the animals. The owner of a Manade is the Manadier.
Attributes: Made up of woolen fabrics and strings, they are arranged on the base of the horns and on the forehead of the bull. They are awarded in bidding during the fifteen minutes of the race for each bull.
Arrival in Occitan:Action to leave the Manade towards the Arenas.
Release in Occitan: Action to leave the arenas in the direction of the meadows (Manade).
Attrapaïres: They are an integral part of Abrivado and Bandido. The game is to catch the Bious with your bare hands in the middle of the horses and immobilize them for a few seconds.
Biou: Beef in Occitan. Today it is more commonly used to indicate Taurus.
Guardian: Keeper of cows, it is he who looks after and gives food to the animals. On his Camargue horse he sorts, in the middle of the Manade, the bulls that will make up the Race.
The Raset: Action of passing as closely as possible in front of the bull’s head, to adjust his hook stroke as well as possible.
The Raseteur: Still in white, he must remove as many attributes as possible to score points. He pockets the winnings at the end of each Race. It can happen during great actions or in front of the bravery of a bull that the aria of Carmen (Opéra de Bizet) resound, it is a tribute paid to the courage of the BIOU and the men who compete for our greatest pleasure.

Festivities
In Marsillargues the Festivities are one of the customs not to be missed. Traditional or cultural, they are available throughout the year and if you go through our village, here are the events you can attend:

Camargue races:
An impressive spectacle following the races. They take place in the city arenas which are located in the center of the village between the town hall, the church and the castle. This central position gives this building a primordial role in the life of the people of Marsillargu. Its classified track gives it an excellent reputation in the world of Camargue races. During the Bouvine season, the races animate our village with a climax during the votive festival and its traditional Thursday Grand’Course, a benchmark in terms of festivities.

Festivities at the Château:
The festivities are also those of July 14 organized by the city with the fireworks offered to the population invited to come and admire them on the lawn of the castle.

Cultural events:
In Marsillargues, the main courtyard of the castle is transformed into a cultural place and welcomes new events. All year round, this communal heritage becomes the scene of artistic and cultural encounters: In 2016, the castle opened its doors at the beginning of July for the ” Opéra passion ” meeting: the opera choirs designed by the choir Les Chorégiens de Montpellier are part of the project for choirs, soloists, piano and orchestra. The Méli-Mélo choir of Saint Just and the Chorus Vibrato of Beaucaire are associated. Same success in 2014 for Carmina Burana with the 80 choristers of the association.

If the opera holds a place of heart for the city, the theater is not forgotten so far. At the same time, the castle welcomes open-air theatrical performances in its main courtyard, particularly during the votive festival:

On Wednesday evening, the municipality offers you a theater at the castle: The professional company of the Théâtre du Baudrac came in 2016 with La femme du boulanger and had already performed on the same stage The well-digger’s daughter in 2013. The herd of happy people 1 in 2012, and 2 returned to the Camargue in 2015. One man south by and with Laurent Pit in 2014, which humorously recounts a day of celebration in the small village where the actor grew up. Actions in partnership with the Community of Communes of the Pays de Lunel: circus in 2014 with acrobats for Garbage and housewives.

Christmas Markets:
In winter, the first Sunday of December are organized the “Marsi’art de Noël”, a craft fair and market of flavors with musical entertainment or a show offered to children. Many exhibitors come to present their artisanal creations and to discover local products. Each year, a competition to create objects on the Christmas theme is also launched for the children of the town. To be won, vouchers for the AB bookstore in Lunel, which is our partner for this event.